The start of sunset over Lake Titicaca viewed from Cerro Calvario
Thankfully, the disputes causing the road blocks between La Paz and Copacabana were resolved shortly after my arrival in La Paz and I was able to plan a trip to Lake Titicaca via Copacabana and Isla del Sol. I spent an incredible three days hiking around the lake and getting to know some of the magnificent street dogs in the area. Honestly, some of the dogs I met there were the best travel companions I’ve had so far!
The bus to Copacabana was extremely straightforward. I booked a Bs 35 tourist bus that picked me up at my La Paz hostel at 8am and I arrived in Copacabana around noon. I then hiked to Cerro Calvario, a religious site that features 14 stations of the cross as well as magnificent views of Copacabana and the lake.
The following day I missed the 8:30 boat to Isla del Sol and the only other options were to wait until 1:30 for the next boat or walk north toward Yampupata and get a private boat from there. I chose the latter, and it was definitely a great choice! Not only did I have a wonderful canine companion, but I was treated to total tranquility as the sole person for most of the 4-hour walk.
I spent my second night on Isla del Sol, which again was simply fantastic. I thought I had seen a lot of stars at the Colca Canyon, but the night sky on the island was even more dazzling.
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- Waiting (anxiously) for our tour bus to cross the Tiquina Strait
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- The view of Copacabana from Cerro Calvario
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- My loyal canine companion on the road to Yampaputa
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- An Incan road on the way to Yampupata
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- Checking the map: almost there!
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- Sunset over the north end of Isla del Sol
A Yank without a Chain 
Lake Titicaca has been on my list for a long time. Sounds amazing. Do you ever get scared being alone for that long on a hike for example? I had some trouble with that in Mexico but I am assuming learning how to deal with solitude is a skill and I’ve only had a month of totally solo travel so far.
You should definitely go! It’s amazing. I think this was the longest hike I’ve ever done completely alone – it was a good 10 hours from leaving Copacabana until I finally settled into a hostel on the island. I did stop for lunch at a restaurant on Isla del Sol and there were some other hikers later in the day who I chatted to. I think the key is just be prepared – make sure you’ve got enough food, water, and money for at least a full 24 hours, have a basic first aid kit, and bring a good book or music! The only way to find out if it’s something you’ll enjoy doing is to try it.
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