I have to admit that I am not a huge architecture buff and I normally don’t go out of my way to learn a terrible lot about the buildings or what period or style they were built in. I certainly never remember an architect’s name. But when I got to Szeged in Hungary, then Subotica in Serbia, and I kept hearing about Art Nouveau, I knew I had to learn a bit about it. Luckily, the tourist information offices in both Szeged and Subotica have published self-guided walking tours that are informative and easy to follow.
In a nutshell, Art Nouveau flourished in this area in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Szeged was stricken by a massive flood in 1879 and Emperor Francis Joseph promised to rebuild it “more beautiful than it was before”. The resulting efforts took a cue from European architects and artists who believed that industrial development was negatively impacting beauty. Therefore, they tried to instill art and tradition into everyday life. This philosophy spilled into Subotica, which at the time was actually part of the same country at Szeged. Hungarians eventually established their own Art Nouveau movement – the Secessionist Period.
Given the summer season and how many leaves are on the trees, it was a bit difficult to capture good photos of the exteriors of the buildings; a testament to the lovely greenery in these places! However, I did manage to get a few good interior shots, especially of the splendid city hall in Subotica which was designed by Dezso Jakab. I also trekked 8 km to Palic, outside of Subotica, and saw some more lovely, folksy buildings there.
- The ceiling of the synagogue in Szeged
- The view from the city hall tower in Subotica
- The roof of the synagogue in Subotica
- The fountain outside the city hall in Subotica
- A stained glass inside the city hall representing — the city hall
- A floor in Subotica’s city hall
- The main staircase in Subotica’s city hall
- Decorative windows in the city hall of Subotica
- The ceiling in the main room of the city hall in Subotica
- A wall detail in the city hall of Subotica
- Stained glass representing Austro-Hungarian rulers
- The iconic water tower in Palic
- A detail of the gazebo of the water tower
- The Grand Terrace building in Palic
- Another view of the grand terrace in Palic
- A detail of the gazebo of the Grand Terrace
- The women’s beach at Palic, and of course the magnificent lake
- Not all the Art Nouveau buildings have been kept up!
- Even the gardens are designed in Art Nouveau style