Art Nouveau in Szeged, Subotica and Palic

An intricate ceiling in Subotica's hall

An intricate ceiling in Subotica’s city hall

I have to admit that I am not a huge architecture buff and I normally don’t go out of my way to learn a terrible lot about the buildings or what period or style they were built in. I certainly never remember an architect’s name. But when I got to Szeged in Hungary, then Subotica in Serbia, and I kept hearing about Art Nouveau, I knew I had to learn a bit about it. Luckily, the tourist information offices in both Szeged and Subotica have published self-guided walking tours that are informative and easy to follow.

In a nutshell, Art Nouveau flourished in this area in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Szeged was stricken by a massive flood in 1879 and Emperor Francis Joseph promised to rebuild it “more beautiful than it was before”. The resulting efforts took a cue from European architects and artists who believed that industrial development was negatively impacting beauty. Therefore, they tried to instill art and tradition into everyday life. This philosophy spilled into Subotica, which at the time was actually part of the same country at Szeged. Hungarians eventually established their own Art Nouveau movement – the Secessionist Period.

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Icelandic Food

The strangest thing I think I've ever eaten... smoked puffin breast at 3 Frakkar in Reykjavik

The strangest thing I think I’ve ever eaten… smoked puffin breast at 3 Frakkar in Reykjavik

I’ve been traveling around central and eastern Europe for the past few weeks and getting my delicious fill of wiener schnitzel and goulash, but I’ve also been craving some of the Icelandic delights I had during my road trip a few weeks ago. The amazing fresh seafood and awesome lamb dishes were undeniably sumptuous, albeit a bit above my backpacker price range.

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Iceland Road Trip: Day 4

Seriously, looking at this sky never got old.

Seriously, looking at this sky never got old.

I initially wanted to visit Snæfellsnes National Park on day 4, but I quickly realized that it was an overly ambitious plan. As it was, I spent most of the day driving even without making the detour onto the peninsula! I definitely could have used another two or three days with the car to see more sights. It just means I’ll have to go back one day.

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Chile Roundup

The Artilleria funicular in Valparaiso

The Artilleria funicular in Valparaiso

I spent a total of 16 days in Chile and spent an average of $49 per day – although that would be significantly lower if I hadn’t done a ski trip to Valle Nevado (which cost $200 for the day). I enjoyed Santiago much more than I thought I would have. I had heard so many stories about how polluted (true) and boring (not true) the city was, but I easily managed to fill 10 days in the city without getting bored.

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Peru Roundup

A plate of ceviche in Trujillo

A plate of ceviche in Trujillo

Peru was the first country on my RTW and it made for an excellent start. I spent 24 days in the country and visited five major sites (Lima, Trujillo, Huaraz, Cusco and surroundings, Arequipa and surroundings). My average daily budget was US$50, although I definitely splurged during my time in Cusco on some of the nicer restaurants (Uchu is highly recommended!) and did a bit of shopping.
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